The Vampire

Tahquitz Rock, California

Amazing position on Tahquitz Rock up the one of the most improbable lines.  Ben Feintzeig and I got on it this past Sunday (Oct. 16th, 2011).  Although we flailed our way up the bat crack it is, without a doubt, five star rock climb.

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Approach (2 pitches): From the base of the Trough head up and left to the large ledge with trees.  Belay here.  Then head up and left into a corner with several cracks (5.6) to "Vampire Ledge."  You could easily simul-climb this whole approach.

The route.  Straight up the guts of Tahquitz Rock.  Look at it!  
The first two pitches are approaches to P1.

Pitch 1: The Bat Crack.  We did the classic, non-direct start.  The direct start does not increase the grade, but is more sustained (and we heard there is a lot of bat crap). Getting into the Bat Crack from Vampire ledge is certainly funky, and it requires a 10' down climb (a bit spooky if it's your first time, but it's all there).

If you want to place something when you get into the crack, you will need to walk up your gear (#1BD) until you get a little above your belayer in order to avoid rope drag.  It's slammer hands for some way and then gets to fingers-- this is where the pump really begins to  set in.

A fixed piton is found through strenuous moves before the 1st rest above.  A short interesting section when the crack widens, and you're forced to clip a bolt off of two flat holds on the right side of the crack.  The next sequence requires a semi-desperate move with a high step and a precarious left-hand finger lock (or jam).  It seems that Fen always finds finger locks while I usually find jams.

Save some juice for the 5.10d mantle to the chains.  Place something high on right to protect the move (#2 or 3BD works great).  Pumpy, awesome pitch.

Ben starting up the Bat Crack

Protecting the mantle move (over the white streak)

Pitch 2: A three or four move traverse sequence off of sharp crimps and friction footholds leads to a thin crack out left.  I adjusted my feet here and slam dunked my right hand above my left hand onto the flake (jug).  The sequence here is rated 5.11a and fall at this point would land you back at the belay (PG).

Now prepare yourself for some of the best, most exposed 5.10 flake moves you'll ever do.  Gear and fun abundant.  This pitch is so very good.  Follow the flakes up until you can traverse out left on a hand rail to a bolted hanging belay.  

Me nearing the end of P2. Exposure!

Pitch 3: Head back to the flake and up a few moves to a bolt up on the right face.  A short steep sequence on marginal crimps/scrimps (5.11a) brings you through some delicate moves up a lower angle thin crack.  Continue up to easier terrain with good gear and a hanging belay in an obvious alcove.

This was the technical crux (I fell following this pitch), but my personal crux remains the endurance first pitch, The Bat Crack.

Pitch 4: Take the crack on the left up through two roof sections.  Looks somewhat improbable from the belay, but turns out to be no harder than 5.8 to the top.  I kept waiting for a heinous friction slab...